The Registers' Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa, or RAGBRAI, has been a thing since 1973. RAGBRAI is the oldest, largest and longest recreational bicycle touring event in the world.
This was my fifth RAGBRAI, and the first for my brother, Pat, who joined us on a new bike and rode with very little training.
The ride is all about the journey, not the destination. RAGBRAI is a showcase for Iowa's greatest treasure: The people of Iowa. In Spencer, Iowa, I met Susan from Ohio, a 15-year RAGBRAI veteran. I asked her why she keeps coming back year after year. She said, "The people—they are so warm and friendly." Because the route changes every year, you meet people from many different towns and cities, and they will bend over backwards to help you. A rider from Indiana voiced a similar refrain. He said, "I'm a Hoosier. I think Iowa is utopia." I told him that was probably the first time anyone from Indiana ever used the words "Iowa" and "Utopia" in the same sentence. Iowa in July can be the place Utopia is farthest from. But in a very real sense, he was right. Iowans are some of the nicest people you will ever meet.
Main Street, USA — The view from the church steps in Protivin, Iowa, during RAGBRAI 2017.
There is a definite beginning and end.
In fact, there is a ceremonial 'dipping of the tires' at the start and finish of the ride. This year, Missouri river water was trucked to Orange City, Iowa, for the first day. Riders dip their back tire into the 'Missouri' and dip their front tire into the Mississippi river a week later.
The ride is physically challenging.
A typical RAGBRAI is over 400 miles. There are many hills to climb—some out-of-state riders are surprised to learn that Iowa is not as flat as they thought. The best advice for the ride, as in life: Use sunscreen. Being sunburnt is no way to go through life, or this ride. Your legs will get sore. Your feet will hurt. Often your hands will go numb. If you do not have padded bike shorts, you will be very uncomfortable.
However, there is a wonderful sense of community between the riders. Perhaps it is the bonding that happens when a struggle is shared. A stranger only moments before can quickly become a friend. But at the same time, it's just you and your bike. The challenge is to put aside the struggle of pedaling mile after mile, and just keep moving forward. One of the more colorful riders had the following sign on the back of her bike seat: "My name is Mary. I am from Washington, Iowa. I am 90 years old, and I am ahead of YOU!" That’s motivation!
Taking a break in Rockford, Iowa. Pat Marlow (center) and Jason Spangler, foreground.
You meet just about every kind of person along the way. I have seen families, teams of co-workers and college friends on the route, as well as those who ride alone. There are those who wear goofy costumes and tutus. "Team Spin" wears purple wigs. I cannot imagine anyone wearing a purple wig for an entire week during July in Iowa, but they do. Former Tour de France cyclist Lance Armstrong enjoys RAGBRAI. Despite his personal and professional failings, Lance is very much loved and admired by Iowans. We spotted him in Cresco, signing autographs. Over 60% of RAGBRAI riders are from outside the state of Iowa. There is a team of New York City firefighters who make the journey every summer to bike across Iowa. People come from every state, and many foreign countries, to ride their bikes past Iowa cornfields.
Your personality will often determine what part of the day you ride. Early risers are the serious ones. Some of them treat RAGBRAI like a race (it is not). By late morning, you see the teams and those in costumes. By the end of the day, you see the hard-core partiers. Yes, there are plenty of adult beverages consumed by riders during the week. But there are many riders who don’t drink at all. One beverage that is an absolute necessity for all riders is water. Dehydration can be a serious threat, and riders are told to drink at least 1 bottle of water every hour while underway—even more if you’re consuming alcohol. Sounds like a lot of water, but believe me, you’ll sweat it out.
Jerome (left) and Rudy ride their tandem bike across Iowa, a state Rudy has never seen.
Around 20,000 riders usually take part in RAGBRAI in any given year, and everyone has a story to share. But the most memorable riders are those who overcome adversity. Riders like Rudy, from Chicago, who is blind. A friend serves as Rudy's eyes, and together they ride a tandem bike. A head injury nearly 20 years ago caused Rudy's blindness. "I don't let it stop me," said Rudy. "I bike, swim, kayak and ski."
You can't be sad when you're eating pie and ice cream — In every town along the route, there are new things to see, and foods to be savored. When you are burning 6,000+ calories per day, you can eat anything you want. I prefer to seek out the local homemade foods wherever I can. Sure, you can get really tasty fare from the vendors like "Mr Pork Chop" and "Tender Tom's Turkey." However, the United Methodist Church tent in any given town will almost always have the best pie. (An exception to this are the Amish. They come from Missouri every year, selling homemade pie and ice cream, which is outstanding)
It's not just a profit motive that inspires the local folks—it is pride in their hometown. Iowans are fiercely proud of their home, their community, and their faith. After a little prodding, they don't mind telling you they baked 300 homemade pies in the high school cafeteria kitchen, in order to have enough to serve their RAGBRAI guests. In the Midwest, food is love—and the love flows like manna from heaven—or like pie and ice cream.
Eat with the Methodists—Church folks always have the best pie—and because they are burning so many calories, riders can partake several times per day while on RAGBRAI.
There is a sense of adventure that seems to missing from ordinary modern life. Yes, you are riding with thousands of others. But it is still you against the elements. On 90º+ days, it’s tough going, and you have to take it one hill at a time. There are dangers and situations to be conquered. During the 2017 ride, a line of thunderstorms blew through the upper Midwest on Wednesday. It rained for hours. The early risers were able to outrun the storm. The partiers waited until the rain stopped. Those in the middle got soaked, but they persevered. Just as in life, there are peaks and valleys.
But the feeling of personal satisfaction when you finish the ride is uplifting and emotionally powerful. Many people cry when their journey is complete. There is also something to be said for riding with others. The miles go by more quickly when you share the journey, vs. going solo.
There's nothing more uniquely glorious than to ride down a big hill, no-handed like a kid, cool wind in your face, arms outstretched to the blue sky. You glide past the town cemetery, and you wonder if those sleeping there ever experienced anything like this. Best of all, you are grateful to feel truly alive.
